Location: Fiji   Date: 7/27-8/28/2001

27JUL01 Arrived in Fiji after another pleasant Air New Zealand flight.  Left on Thursday morning and arrived on Friday morning.  Crossing the international dateline caused me to lose most of Thursday.  But, that's ok since I continue to fight a cold a lost day is not a tragedy.  I gave up and began taking my course of antibiotics and experienced rapid reduction of some symptoms.  I guess I must have had both a viral and bacterial infection simultaneously.  I tracked down local transport and with the help of friendly locals got to The White House and booked a room.  Walked into Nadi (nandi) and checked it out.  The people are very friendly, smiling and greeting you with "bula".  I sampled some fish and chips in a local supermarket food court and sat on a nice bench under a shade tree in front of the local crafts market and watched the world go by.  Had a great massage (only $12.50 US for an hour) and returned to the hotel for a nap and combination fried rice at the attached Chinese restaurant. 

28JUL01  Feeling better upon waking today.  No sore throat and chest clearing.  I'll be even happier when my ears are back to normal.  It is challenging enough understanding people without my ears being clogged up.  It's like experiencing the world through a thick layer of plastic.  Went walking in Nadi again.  I visited the very colorful Sri Siva Subramaniya Swami Temple.  I had vegetable curry for lunch.  I'm glad I asked for medium spicy as it was about all I could handle.  I had pizza for dinner checked out the nightlife at the Caribbean Club and looked at my choices at the Cinema and decided to retire early.  My travel plans for Fiji are firming-up.  I'll take the early express bus to Suva (about $5 US) and catch a freighter deck class to Kaduvu (kanduvu) and stay at Albert's.  I hope my ears are up to some diving.

29JUL01 Great progress.  My ears are almost working again.  Sunday in Nadi is very quiet.  I'm using this day to catch up on my website.  I found an INC (internet cafe) with FrontPage 2000 loaded and good rates ($1.25US/hr).  I picked up my laundry, I cleaned out the excess paper in my wallet, etc.  The pace is hectic.  The most reliable form of entertainment is listening to traveler's tales.  But with my ears not fully functional, I'm getting tired of saying, "Speak up there, Sonny.  I'm deef."  Many efforts have been made to book me on a tour to an inland village.  I'll probably try it when I get back from Kaduvu and Taveuni.  I've enjoyed watching channel 1 (the only local broadcast channel).  The main promotional scheme here seems to revolve around drawings for prizes based on purchase of goods.  This is an interesting change because in the US this form of promotion is prohibited.

30JUL01 Took the bus from Nadi to Suva. The video bus was quite an experience.  The first feature was "Lost and Found" with David Spade and the second was a Jackie Chan type martial arts movie.  It between scenes there was terrific scenery.  I arrived in Suva in the very busy and confusing bus terminal.  There must be 50 busses each with a destination on it.  Passengers move with purpose from on bus to the next.  Except for me.  I'm clueless.  After a few minutes with the "South Pacific Handbook" I set off for the ferry to Kadavu.  Surprise, It doesn't go to the right side of Kadavu on Monday, only on Thursday.  So, I look up a hotel and choose the Travel Inn.  My room is a comfortable single with a shared kitchen and shower for only $10US.  

31JUL01 While having breakfast in the shared kitchen I met Julie, a grad student from Washington studying the archaeology of ancient Fiji.  She shows me the way to the Museum of Fiji where I spend an enjoyable morning.  I chatted with some young Fijians sitting in the park and an administration official.  Caught "Evolution" in the new, modern and very nice Suva Cinema 6.  

01AUG01 Took a tour of Suva by public bus and saw some spectacular views.  Visited the library and bought a good used paperback for 25 cents US.  Tested out local nachos.  See report below.

02AUG01 I'm preparing to catch the freighter at midnight for Suva.  I ate the Big Mac Super Value Meal and it tastes pretty much the same as in the US.  Diana sent me an email with several interesting questions.  I've included the answers below (you figure out the questions):

My favorite place so far has been Moorea. The campsite right on the beach was great. The travelers tales in the common kitchen were fun. I might have enjoyed Rarotonga more without the cold. It's too early to tell about Fiji. I enjoy Suva...the town is very lively. Lot's of entrepreneurial spirit.

The food has been great everwhere. I found nachos on the menu at the Bad Dog Restaurant and can award them a 4. I found pizza in Nadi and can award that a 6. The Hare Krisna vegetarian restaurant earns a 9 for its more than I could eat,$3.75US, special dinner. Street food is good. Yesterday I had a tall cool glass of fruit juice at the Suva Market for $1US. 

I've only used my tent on Moorea. The rooms in Fiji have been cheap. I may use the tent in Kadavu. Because I've had a tent or private rooms I haven't had to face any hostel hostility about my snoring.

My equipment losses are minimal. I lost both pair of reading glasses almost immediately and have been on a quest for a replacement pair that doesn't break almost immediately and somewhere between Tahiti and Rarotonga someone took a fancy to my miniature caribiners that I used to secure my sleeping bag and tent to the outside of my pack. Otherwise my gear is intact.

I may not be able to find a way to edit my webpage on Kadavu so the next update may be awhile.  

MIDNIGHT IN FIJI

03AUG01-13AUG01 Well, there was a slight change in plans.  It seems midnight Thursday in Fiji is between Wednesday and Thursday. I interpreted midnight to mean the time between Thursday and Friday.  Therefore, I was 22 hours late for my ship.  I understand the phrase, "missed the boat" better now.  I ended up on standby for a flight to Taveuni and barely made it.  I must have had a very disappointed look on my face when they said to come back in two days because as I was walking away from the counter they called me back, weighed me and shoehorned me onto the Harbin 17.

Taveuni was wonderful.  I pitched my tent in the Beverly Campground about 25 feet from the beach.  The kitchen is in a grass covered hut, there is a flush toilet and a cold shower and plenty of friendly travelers.  

Bill Madden, the owner of the campground and his nephew William were terrific hosts.  Bill invited us into his home to share kava.  His relative Joe invited us on two nights for kava.  I've developed a taste for the national drink of Fiji.  

A highlight of the trip was the "island show".  A group of Fijians travel from one resort to the next, dancing and singing.  Another realative of Bill's (Uncle Waga) invited Rubin and I to sit in the back of the group while they performed.  So, we got to see all the exclusive resorts from the ground level.  Being mixed into the group made the singing even better.  Rubin and I continued sloshing down the Kava and I found the courage to dance.  

There was a new Pizza place next to the campground and I ate great pizza until it ran out of my ears.  We washed it down with Bounty Rum, a tasty local brand.  Later when additional campers appeared we bought three "slabs" (24 count cases) of Fiji Bitter and continued the tradition of toasting the sunset.

I took a two tank dive on the rainbow reef with Swiss Fiji Divers, the soft coral was fantastic but the equipment left something to be desired.  The owners were a little "too tonic", if you know what I mean.  

Took a trip to a waterfall with a well-worn channel that works as a water slide.  It was really fun.  I watched a soccer (football) game between local teams and I took a bush walk with Bill, his granson Kenny and the rest of the campers.  We went uphill to Bill's farm where he grows kava and taro.  Kava can be harvested in 4 years, but Bill has some older trees that he plans to harvest at 8 years.  It makes stronger kava.  

When I first arrived at the campground Rubin was the only other camper.  Three days later others began arriving. Roger, an ebullient Kiwi and Jim from Toronto joined us.  The next day Dennis from Croyden and Mitsuke from Kyoto showed up.  Finally, Charlie from Aspen arrived and the campground was full.  We had a wonderful time swapping traveler's tales and mooching food and drink off of each other.  

I think this spot has taken over as most fun yet.

I just returned at dawn today (8/13) by way of Adi Savusavu, a ferry from Taveuni. Taveuni was a blast. I'll hang around Suva until late Wednesday night then catch another ferry for Kadavu. In Suva I have access to FrontPage so I can update my website. Check the website for more details on Taveuni. Uploading pictures will have to wait until New Zealand. I probably won't have access to the web in Kadavu so the next chance to catch up will be in 10 or 12 days when I pass back through Suva. 

Kadavu

14AUG01-22AUG01  What an adventure!  I carefully showed up at the ferry dock late on Wednesday evening.  As I talked to the people present they said the ferry from Kadavu was due not at midnight but at 0200.  And it would not sail until 2200 the following night.  The wind was blowing, the rain was pouring down and budget lodgings are not open in the middle of the night.  Using my brain and my highly developed "pitiful look" I negotiated a cabin on the Bouloua Ni Ceva and settled down for a few hours of fitful sleep.  I awoke to continued downpour and three foot waves in Suva Harbor.  I decided that a movie was just the ticket so I went to the Cinema 6 and took in the classic, "Cats and Dogs".  It was quite a hit with the 12 year olds in the audience.

The ferry trip was rough and I found out that the ferry was not scheduled to stop at Albert's place.  So, when it arrived at Vunisea, I hitched a 90 minute ride in an open boat to Albert's.  The seas had calmed somewhat but the leak that filled the boat as fast as it could be bailed made the trip memorable.  When I arrived at Albert's I had to complete the last 10 meters to the beach by wading.  When I told Albert the message, "the green barrels will be delivered to Kadavu City", he seemed surprised.  He grabbed the phone and four hours later the ferry did show up at Albert's.  I'm beginning to discover that ferry's are not always predictable in Fiji.

Albert's was a wonderful place.  I stayed in a bure (grass hut) fifteen meters from water's edge.  Ruth and Ramona were great cooks and I was happy I chose the meal package.  Fresh bread, scones, very fresh fish, great soups and desserts all contributed to my weight enhancement program.  Walter and Birgit from Austria made for pleasant mealtime companions.

Roger from Taveuni showed up and we scheduled a dive on  the Astrolable reef.  Roger fell victim to "demon rum" but I enjoyed the dive with a couple from Hawaii. The dive was spectacular.  Soft corals of all colors and a pair of bronze whaler sharks made it my best dive yet.  Phillipa (the dive master) gave me some helpful hints.

The days at Albert's were mostly sunny and very lazy.  Because the sun set at 1830, after dinner was dark.  Reading and conversation were by kerosene lantern.  Saturday night was a special treat as we went to Michael's house for "Dumb and Dumber" and "The Patriot".  

Catching the ferry back to Suva was equally challenging.  It was expected in the afternoon so I was packing up very slowly when Ramona said the ferry was going by.  It doesn't stop so we have to chase it down.  So, I had to pack up everything and say goodbye at warp speed.  Then we began the race.  We caught the ferry after a half hour of hot pursuit.   I enjoyed an uneventful 6 hour return to Suva aided by a few drinks of kava from the rugby team.  We had shared the ferry on the way over to Kadavu and after a close game (they lost to Kadavy 14 to 13) they were returning to Sembala in good spirits.  

I caught a taxi to the Travel Inn and snagged their last room and turned in early for a good night's sleep and a hot shower in the morning.  I'm updating my website at Alpha Computer Center in Suva and plan to catch the local bus for Pacific Harbor this afternoon.  

Pacific Harbour

23AUG01-27AUG01  I watched the first 30 minutes on a pleasant video bus ride from Suva.  I tried to check into the Christian Camp backpacker but to my good fortune is was full.  I walked next door the the Deuba Inn.  This is the nicest hotel of the whole trip.  My room is small, but comfortable and freshley painted and only $8 US per night.  The best hot shower I've had in two months is ten meters away and the food is great.  I've become acquainted with the hotel staff.  La keeps the place looking great and Sera traded me internet access for helping with the early design of a website for the hotel.  

28AUG01 My last day in Fiji.  What a great country.  I hope the election that is currently in progress 

On my second day here I went on the best dive yet in the Beca Lagoon.  The first dive was good but the second dive, called Side Streets, was spectacular.  A series of coral heads rise from the bottom at 50 feet to within 10 feet of the surface.  The current nurtures fan coral of various colors.  Tropical fish from tiny to large abound.  Some of the divers saw a white tipped reef shark.  I was probably so busy staring at the coral that I missed it.  

I met an interesting family from Sydney at the hotel.  Vivienne is married to a local Fijian man and has adopted children.  I joined them for a few drinks on the terrace.  Afterward I had one cup of kava in the TV room and had no trouble sleeping.  I'm sad to see my time in Fiji coming to an end but at the same time I'm excited about the prospect of New Zealand notwithstanding the fact that it looked pretty cold and rainy at the live rugby match originating in Auckland.  Good thing I packed my fleece jacket.   

28AUG01 My last day in Fiji.  What a great country.  I hope the election in progress brings peace and prosperity.