Location: Rarotonga, Cook Islands   Date: 7/5/2001-7/19/2001

6JUL01 Did almost nothing.  Spent time in Avarua, drank a little rum, got acquainted with Taran and Claudia (graphics designers from London) who share my chalet at Tiare Village.  We saw the island show at the Coconut Club, the in spot on Rarotonga on a Friday night.

7JUL01 While eating breakfast today on the porch of my chalet overlooking a beautiful creek in a tropical forest, I noticed my last name on one of the chairs.  I'll have to remember to take a picture to prove that there is a "Hartman" chair.  I've found a great place to work on my website:  Ronnie's Bar.  I'm going to help him with some advice about equipment and programs and he's going to let me work on my website.  He's got a nice email setup at his back bar. 

When I remember to bring my notes, I'll try to catch up with what I've been doing for the last few days.

Met Keira, a Canadian from Victoria who had just completed a bicycle tour of New Zealand and part of Australia.  Enjoyed a visit to the local market where I met Tepaeru Taneiiau an 81 year old beauty who kept trying to give me free fruit.  I asked her why she came to market with her produce and she said that she liked to meet people.

8JUL01 Got up at 10AM this morning, did my yoga, took off on my rental bicycle to Muri Beach.  Along the way I found an internet cafe with facilities for uploading pictures and editing my website so I took advantage.

09-14JUL01 I've spent the last week earinng my PADI SCUBA certification from Cook Islands Divers.  My instructor was Brad Twiss a Kiwi with an impressive deck of certification cards for a twenty something.  I started the course with three students.  The first day was classroom and a lagoon diver off Muri beach.  It was awesome.  Rachel dropped out after the first day because she had trouble with her ears.  The next day we took two more dives.  One dive was on the wreck of the MaiTai.  According to local lore, the crew was all onshore celebrating Christmas 1916 when a cyclone blew up and put the ship on the reef.  The cargo was a load of Model T Fords and you can still see the tire rims.  Other than the boilers which still show above the surface, the rest of the ship is covered with coral and sea creatures of all sorts.  What an experience.  The final two certification dives were on a day of chilly rain and gusty winds.  Although it was calm underneath Carolyn had a difficult dive.  What I thought was a drill (sharing air with another diver) was the real thing.  We got back to the anchor chain and ascended.  She decided not to complete the final dive.  Friday morning, I took my first dive as a certified diver.  We went near the edge of the reef where the ocean drops 4000 feet to the bottom.  There I saw a school of barracuda, a moray eel, and a green turtle.  There were more varieties of tropical reef fishes than I can name.  My favorite is the parrot fish.  It's like a living rainbow.  

Friday afternoon I promoted myself from bicycle to motor scooter.  After a week of practice, I was almost ready to drive on the left side of the road and survive.  After a few close calls, local authorities allowed the public back on the roads and I've mostly mastered the traffic.  

I went out to the local Island Show at the Banana Court.  So inspired by the talent of the locals, I danced to the music at sound levels adequate to cause ear hemorrhages.  I followed the crowd to the Staircase Restaurant  where the party roared on until 2 AM.  I met up with Gabi, who I met in Moorea, and her friend Pamela.  

A little yoga this morning, a brisk ride on my motor scooter, and a walk on Muri beach and I'm as good as new.  

15-19JUL01 It's been a quiet week.  I've had several changes of travelers in Chalet #2.  Two couples from Switzerland checked in the same day.  They were surprised to run into other Swiss.  They promised to yodel for me but never got around to it.  Marcus and Jaime of Wales stayed for a while and one evening we had a rousing game of Trivial Pursuit (British version).  I came from behind to post a victory. I took another diving tour and saw a pair of very shy, very small white reef sharks.  I took a trek to the top of the island.  I could see the ocean on both sides.  I continue to terrorize the local drivers as I get used to cycling on the left.  I've run into a group of yatchies... Fascinating stories of their voyages.  I went to a show Tuesday night.  The youth performers of Rarotonga are traveling to perform in the Edinburg Tatoo.  It was spectacular.  51 performers, four costume changes, music, dancing, singing.  I am getting a little tired of the same six videos in the TV room at Tiare village.

20-22JUL01 It's been a quiet few days in Rarotonga.  I'm fighting off a cold and so I've spent most of my time sleeping or reading.  Saw a movie.  Sat on the beach.  Yawn.  My left ear hasn't completely cleared from diving so, I can't hear well.  Consequently, traveler's stories and the entertainment they provide are in short supply.  The parade of guests continues in Chalet #2, so I do get a few stories.  My coconut sprung a leak and covered my food shelf with a strange substance.  I was protected from the odor by my cold.  Only a few more days in Rarotonga then off to Fiji.  The Tilikum Triton is scheduled to depart on Monday with Gabi.  Pamela and the Captain had a difference of opinion so she will not be sailing.

23-26JUL01 The cold rages on.  It's reduced my ambition to riding the rental motorscoter around the island and sitting on a particularly comfortable bench next to the pharmacy in the CITC (Cook Island Trading Company) shopping centre in downtown Avarua.  There is a local guy a few years older than me who is my role model.  He can sit for hours with no apparent effort.  I've watched the building of little patios for tables with umbrellas with great interest.  It is easy to watch others work.  Played Monopoly with Allyn, Darren, and Martin.  Darren won.  Played Trivial Pursuit (British edition) against a previously undefeated Allyn.  Need I say who prevailed?  I watched "Dumb and Dumber" and determined that it was correctly titled.  Wednesday was spent uploading photos and returning my motorcycle ( it cost under $7US/day).  The motorscooter was great fun.  There are only a few roads on Rarotonga but they are well-maintained.  Locals are more likely to ride motorscooters than autos.  Turns out that the local kids performing at the Edinburg Tattoo were on my flight to Fiji.  They were so excited.  The cheered when the plane took off and landed and chattered happily the whole flight.