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24-31AUG2004 I arrived late in the evening in Belfast and of course it was drizzling. After checking four places for acccomodation I was parked on the sidewalk studing the map alternatives. An old gentleman who was a retired seaman, struck up a conversation and ended up by inviting me to sleep on the sofa in his flat in the retirement village. I enjoyed Roy's sea stories and promised to send him a Texas pin for his collection. Belfast was a great party city with crowds reveling in the streets. The political murals painted on the walls were good art and made some very strong points. I liked the one about Bush. The next night, with yet another storm approaching, I overpaid ($35) for a B&B. But, what luxury. A canopied bed, my own shower and TV and a huge Irish breakfast at a table set with all the nappery one could think of. By now I was out of Northern Ireland and into the Republic of Ireland. The biggest difference visible was that prices were in Euros not pounds. I headed south with a wet, uncomfortable night on an uneven, lumpy tent site somewhere near Galway. The next night I stayed in a hostel where I negotiated a price for pitching my tent in a garage. Why? Because it was raining. My step-brother John married Bernadette and I had promised to vist the family on my way through Cork. I tracked them down by going to the pub in Drimoleague and getting directions. I arrived while most of the family was at a wedding and Anya invited me in for a cup of coffee. It was good to chat with the family and they let me pitch my tent on a soft stretch of green grass next to the house. They offered me a bed inside but, with my snoring, I thought it best to be 20 meters away. I caught up on my washing and my journal. The house was beautiful. Noel is a furniture maker and the interior of the house is beautiful. The house used to be a school house. In fact, Anne and Bernadette attended the school when they were young. Best of all, Noel, who is also a motorcycle enthusiast mapped out a route for me called the Ring of Beara. Mile for mile this is probably the best ride I've had on the trip. I rested for three nights and amazingly enough, there was no rain. The warm hospitality renewed my strength to continue the journey. |
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